The Holiday Tree Illuminates Once Again Since the Outbreak of the Gaza War

Throughout a two-year period during the Gaza war, all public celebrations for Christmas were cancelled within the city of Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This city is where Christians believe Jesus was born.

However, after the recent ceasefire, this sacred city decided that this year the festivities would make a comeback, as symbolised by the illumination of its customary, giant Christmas tree in front of the historic Nativity Church.

"It's been two difficult years of silence; no Christmas, no jobs, no work," states the city's mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here from tourism and tourism was down to nothing."

He acknowledges that the decision to restart festivities was not without controversy, given the ongoing hardship in Gaza – including for those in its small Christian population, who often have family ties to Bethlehem.

"Some may say it is unsuitable and others say it's appropriate," Mr Canawati explains. "However, in my heart, I felt this constituted the right thing to do because the Christmas season must never be stopped or cancelled. This represents the light of hope for us."

A Glimmer of Celebration Returns

Residents – both Christians and Muslims – pose for selfies in front of the tree hung with red and gold baubles in Manger Square. They are joined by a small number of foreign tourists.

Vibrant lights now adorn city streets and there are signs promoting Christmas bazaars and festive events for children.

"We're very happy to see the tree, first of all, and to see foreigners to Bethlehem and to be able to celebrate Christmas in its true spirit," comments Bethlehem designer Nadya Hazboun.

"This place is where it all started, therefore here is where we can send a message to the world of what really Christmas should be about. And now, if the season is calm, I sincerely hope it will bring a nice message for the entire world."

Economic Hopes and Difficulties

The neighbouring towns including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to illuminate Christmas trees soon. Local hotels – which have remained mostly vacant for two years – have an influx in reservations from Palestinian citizens of Israel along with some foreign visitors.

A visitor from Russia, Angelica, is making her second pilgrimage to the Holy Land. "I think every person should visit at minimum one time during their lifetime," she states.

"I hope a lot of people will soon come back as it is sorrowful without many tourists. The only thing that's good is that there are no long lines – one can visit and experience more. On my prior visit it was necessary to wait in a queue for a few hours at least."

For now, the gift shops scattered throughout the city have little business, and near the cream-coloured walls of the Nativity Church, which date back to the 4th century, guides largely stand idle. Before the Gaza war, it was often crammed with visitors.

"This is a tourist city; absent visitors there is no livelihood," laments one guide Hamza. "We hope to see individuals returning as in the past: from Europe, the Middle East, the Americas, Latin America and everywhere. We start with lighting the tree, and we'll wait."

The Persistent Economic Toll

Over the last two years, joblessness has soared in Bethlehem. Following the lethal Hamas-led attacks in southern Israel in October 2023 which triggered the war, tens of thousands of Palestinian labourers from the West Bank region have been blocked from entering Israel and Israeli settlements for work.

At the same time, public servants have been paid just a portion of their salaries from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – that administers parts of the West Bank. The Authority depends on tax income collected by Israel, which it is currently holding – amounting to 1.76 billion dollars, as reported by the UN's trade and development agency.

Israeli officials state it is holding these funds because the Authority provides financial payments to Palestinian prisoners that encourage attacks on Israelis. The PA – which has been under international pressure to make reforms – claims it has lately modified its welfare system.

A Modest Christmas Season

The grim economic situation implies that for numerous Christian Palestinians, despite the fact that there are now public events in addition to religious services, it will be a subdued holiday season.

On the periphery of Manger Square, some patrons are waiting to buy hot balls of falafel from several shops.

"We are getting ready for the holiday following one of our most challenging times as a Palestinian people and as Christians," states Alaa Salameh, an owner of a restaurant called Afteem, a long-established family restaurant which has seen its revenues collapse. He notes that recently numerous families could not even purchase falafel – a cheap, traditional food.

"The faithful will attempt to celebrate but according to their situation," Mr Salameh anticipates. "Someone who wants to bring their children to a festival or the theatre or similar, they lack the funds to expend for this celebration."

Prayers for Calm and Recovery

Within the grotto beneath the Nativity Church, a resident follows a tour group from India, bending down by a silver star that indicates the location where it is said Jesus was born and igniting a candle close by.

Amid ongoing high tensions across the region, people in Bethlehem say they are hoping for peace – and wishing for visitors to return to the place where it is believed Christmas began.

Debra Welch
Debra Welch

Award-winning travel photographer with a passion for capturing diverse cultures and landscapes through her lens.